Dyeing With Madder | Rubia Tinctorum
Madder: An Ancient Dyestuff with Endless Possibilities
Madder is one of the oldest known dyestuffs in existence. Archaeologists have discovered evidence of its use in the Indus Valley site of Mohenjo-daro, where a piece of cotton cloth dyed with madder was found, dating to around 3000 BC, though the dating methods from that time are still debated. The earliest confirmed identification of madder is on an Egyptian leather quiver fragment dated to the Middle Kingdom, Dynasty 11 (ca. 2124–1981 BC), found at Thebes.
You can read more about the discovery here: The Met Museum.
A few other ancient pieces include: [1]
Pompeii and Ancient Corinth: Cloth dyed with madder root pigment has been found in the ruins of these ancient cities.
Tutankhamun's Tomb: A madder-dyed belt was discovered in the tomb of the Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun.
Andean Cultures: The Andean cultures of Paracas and Nasca used the domestic madder plant Relbunium long before cochineal.
Madder | Rubia Tinctorum | Dyer’s Madder is a fascinating dyestuff with so much potential hidden in its roots. With a bit of chemistry, you can manipulate the dye to yield reds, corals, pinks, and even, in some cases, purples. It mixes well with other dyes, is readily available to artists, and is both beginner-friendly and challenging for seasoned dyers.
I have yet to master it, but every time I work with madder, I learn something new. The reds become a little more vibrant, the corals a little sweeter. The finishing process becomes a bit easier to handle. And every time I complete a madder project, I’m inspired to plan my next.
Here is a simple recipe for using madder that you can adjust to fit your project:
Madder: 100% WOF (Weight of Fiber)
Madder works best when you use a lot of it. I’ve gotten away with using 50% WOF, but if you’re looking for fully saturated color, 100% is your best bet. For example, if your scarf weighs 100g, use 100g of madder to dye it.
Soak the dyestuff in water overnight before use. This softens the roots and extracts more color.
Soda Ash: 2g
You can add soda ash to your mordant before dyeing your cloth, or you can add it directly into your dye bath. I’ve had success with both methods.
Hard Water: 1-2g
Madder loves hard water. Adding a little bit of calcium carbonate to your dye bath will yield rich reds.
Mordanting Tip: If you’re using cellulose (plant fibers like cotton, linen, etc.), adding your cloth to a tannin bath before mordanting will help with vibrancy and colorfastness.
Once you add your soaked dye material into your dye pot, heat it to about 140°F for an hour. Then, add your fibers and continue to heat for another hour or two, stirring continuously to ensure even color, especially when working with large pieces. Do not let it boil, as the color can become muddy.
